Love Apple Farms

Simon Majumdar Event at Love Apple Farms

We are thrilled to host this very special cooking workshop at Love Apple Farms. 

An Afternoon with Simon Majumdar

To register for the Simon Majumdar event, click on the date below:

April 14, 2012 (Saturday) 2:00 p.m. - 5:00 p.m.  $95

Agenda: 

• Arrival, Champagne, and Introductions
• Book Reading and Discussion
• Cooking demo of three traditional Indian dishes, including the famous LSD (Life saving Dahl), featured in Simon's books. Everyone will get a taste!
• Book Signing and Personal Introductions (we will have Simon's book, Eat My Globe, available for sale)

Simon Majumdar is an author, food writer and broadcaster and has most recently appeared as a judge on the hit Food Network series "The Next Iron Chef" and he reprised this role in 2011 for the fourth season which gained some of the largest ratings in Food Network history.   He has since appeared regularly on other top Food Network Shows like "Iron Chef America" and "The Best Thing I Ever Ate."

Some fun clips of Simon in action on the Next Iron Chef as well as his multiple appearances on the Food Network's series "The Best Thing I Ever Ate," can be viewed here.

In 2007, he left his job of twenty years in book publishing to fulfill an ambition to "Go Everywhere, Eat Everything."  He began a journey that took him to over thirty countries in just over a year and resulted in his best selling food memoir "Eat My Globe."  He followed that with a journey around his homeland of Great Britain, which led to the publication of his second best selling book, "Eating For Britain."  In 2010, Simon was voted amongst the top 50 UK Food & Drink journalists by The UK Press gazette, and he has now written hundreds of articles for many websites, newspapers and magazines including, The Guardian, Ask Men.Com, The Daily Beast and The Times of London.

In 2010, Simon was chosen to be one of the judges on the third season of the hit Food Network series "The Next Iron Chef."  He reprised this role in

2011 for the fourth season which gained some of the

largest ratings in Food Network history, and has since appeared regularly on other top Food Network Shows like "Iron Chef America" and "The Best Thing I Ever Ate."  He is currently working on his new project, "Fed, White & Blue" and continues to "Go Everywhere, Eat Everything" on a journey that has now taken him to nearly seventy countries and all but two of the United States.

In addition to his accomplishments, Simon Majumdar is an outspoken advocate of fine ingredients, from charcuterie to artichokes, and recognizes the importance of educating and developing culinary craftsmen, including farmers.  Toward that end, we have asked him to help support Love Apple Farms' apprentice program.  Our apprentices come from all over the United States to learn how to sustainably grow and raise over 300 different cultivars of fruit, vegetables, herbs, and edible flowers as well as heritage breed turkeys, chickens, goats, and pigs.  Simon is generously donating his time and expertise to advance the cause of organic, artisanal farmers-in-training.

To register for the Simon Majumdar event, click on the date below:

April 14, 2012 (Saturday) 2:00 p.m. - 5:00 p.m.  $95

Love Apple Farms is located at 2317 Vine Hill Road, Santa Cruz, California.  To ask further details about the event or to request a press pass, please email loveapplefarms@gmail.com.

How to Milk a Goat

Every morning on the farm, the apprentices rise with the sun to milk Lupe, one of our three Alpine goats.  Those who have never tried their hand at milking a goat may be surprised to learn that it actually takes a refined technique, as some of us new apprentices are learning.  If you've ever wondered how to milk a goat, or tried and failed to milk a goat, look no further; we're here to help!

In order to keep your goat occupied and satisfied while she's being milked, it's extremely helpful (and in most cases, necessary) to have some grain ready for her to munch on.  If you're using a stanchion, or milking stand, you can put the grain in front of it to lure the goat in.  Our goat Lupe is a stubborn one, and absolutely refuses to be put in the stanchion.  So instead, we hook her up on a leash, and this works well for us. 

The next step before you begin milking your goat is to wipe off her teats.  We like to use baby wipes, but a warm, wet cloth will also do.  This is important, as it removes any dirt or debris that you don't want getting into your milk.  It also serves to massage the udder, which prompts the goat to let down her milk.  Next, get your milking container ready.  Some people like to set a bucket beneath their goat, while others prefer to hold a cup or jar up close to the teat.  Do whatever is most comfortable for you and your goat.  Once that's done, it's time to start milking!

This is where technique, finesse, and practice come in.  To begin, wrap your thumb and forefinger tightly around the top of the teat.  It's very important to clamp these fingers tight (don't worry-- this won't hurt her); if any milk gets back up into the udder, it's possible that your doe may become infected.  While squeezing with these fingers, follow with your middle and ring fingers in succession.  Depending on the size of your goat's teats, you may need to use your pinky finger as well.  This should expel a strong stream of milk; if it doesn't, something's not right. In order to get the goat-milking technique down without man-handling your doe too much, try practicing on a rubber glove filled with water (the fingers are like teats-- get it?).

The first squirt from each teat should not be expelled into your container, as it may contain unwanted debris. Once you begin milking into the bucket or jar, you should continue until all of the milk has been released from the udder.  You'll begin to feel and see that the udder is less tight as you continue milking.  When all of the milk is out, the teats should have a floppy, deflated feel.  To be sure that you've gotten it all out, you should massage the udder and see if your goat releases any more milk.  Once you're able to get two dry pulls, you can give yourself a pat on the back, because you've gotten it all!  But don't get too wrapped up in your self-celebration; there's one more step: it's important to dip your goat's teats in an iodine solution in order to keep bacteria away.

So now you know what it takes to milk a goat! If milking your goat(s) by hand every day (which you'll have to do, otherwise you risk allowing them to become infected) seems too labor-intensive, vacuum milking systems are another option.  Milking goats by hand can be quite fun and rewarding though, if you've got the time and patience to learn.

 

Photographs by Eryn Blackwelder

 

 

Student Testimonial: Dan Cochran

Dan came to our Tomato and Pepper Transplants class last weekend.  He sent me his email as an update on his garden and seed starting set up.  We want to share it with you as we think it's inspiring!

Hi Cynthia,

Thanks to you and your staff (and the weather gods) for a great Saturday pair of classes.  Totally worth it and learned so much from all of you.

About a year ago I decided to cut back on my 60+ hour weeks and get some more balance back in my life.  One of the tasks I promised I'd take on was to thoroughly reboot our entire landscape with natives, ornamentals and raised beds.  Our back yard is now an ornamental oasis but doesn't receive enough sun to make it worthwhile for most edibles.  The side yard is all natives and blueberries (thanks to Alrie Middlebrook who's business is around the corner).  So the front yard had to go.  Well most of it.

I've got about 200 square feet of beds and did all the work myself including the design soil prep, conversion to drip, carpentry and bed irrigation.  The lawn between the beds will eventually get sub-surface Netafim drip.  I'm currently growing a cover crop of grasses and legumes that I'll compost and till in prior to spring planting.  By the way the cover crop pea and bean shoots are delicious.  I'm going to pair them tonight with some wild chanterelles to serve as a bed for some roasted halibut!

I probably would have skimped on the materials and design if this were going in my backyard.  But I think there's a certain amount of curb appeal required to convince people that a front lawn doesn't have to be just that. 

I've also built a seedling grow room and nursery in my basement. You can see the tomato and pepper/eggplant flats we sowed last Saturday awaiting germination.  I invested in a thermostat to control the four foot heat mat and for $5.50 I bought a 4' x 8' sheet of mylar coated styro-board and cut it into four 2' x 4' shelving pieces.  It certainly makes a difference in providing insulation for the heat mat rather than having it leach off onto the steel shelves.

During the process of tearing out the lawn, converting the existing irrigation, building the beds and watching the cover crop come up, I could not believe the number of people (most I didn't even know) that stopped by, asked questions and expressed a great deal of interest in doing the same things.  I'm convinced that home gardening is an incredible catalyst for community building.  And you and your staff have been a true inspiration.

I'll see you at a future class.  And if you're ever in San Jose feel free to drop by.  I'm out to evangelize our neighborhood one block at a time.  Might be a business opportunity for a semi-retired old geezer :-))

 

Best,

Dan Cochran

Come Join Us at Eco-Farm Conference this Week!

STARTS THURSDAY!

For over three decades, EcoFarm’s flagship event has brought food system stakeholders together for education, networking and celebration. With over 60 workshops featuring prominent speakers on the latest advances in agricultural techniques, marketing strategies, research and other important food system issues, along with organic meals and lively entertainment, the Eco-Farm Conference is the largest sustainable agriculture gathering in the western United States.

Click here for more details

Love Apple Farms' Cynthia Sandberg will be speaking on Saturday morning, along with Tucker Taylor of the French Laundry's farm, on Farmer Chef Relationships.

What Can You Do in Your Garden in January?

 

There are lots of things to do in your garden in late January and early February.   Here are a few ideas:

1.  This is a great time to lay out some new beds or regenerate old beds.  Double digging ensures plant roots have the best possible environment.  Planting beds should be light and fluffy so that young roots can easily push through the soil.  We've got a tutorial on double digging, if you're interested in learning.

2.  Start seeds of tomatoes, peppers and eggplants now.  These heat-seaking summer plants need a long lead time to get going, so now is the time to start them.    Sow seeds in a drainable tray in great potting soil, such as Gardner & Bloom's Blue Ribbon Premium Potting Soil.  Lightly cover with 1/4" of soil and keep moist on top of a heat mat until they sprout.  The heat mat should be set to warm the soil between 70 and 80 degrees and you should get good germination of both tomatoes and peppers within a week, 10 days tops.  Heat mats are available at most good nurseries.  Be careful when using a human-type home heating pad, as they are not water proof and tend to super heat the soil. 

If you'd like more tips and tricks on how to start seeds properly (because it IS a bit more involved than that!), consider taking our Growing Tomato Transplants from Seed class, or  Growing Peppers and Eggplants from Seed class this Saturday.  We let students bust into our extensive seed banks and sow a tray of their own to take home to tend.

3.  Start a late winter/early spring vegetable garden.  You can get lots of interesting things growing RIGHT NOW.  Root veggies can be sown directly in a well-prepared bed (double dug, fertilizer and compost added and raked smooth), lightly covered with soil and kept moist until they sprout.  Thin them down so that each root receives a couple inches of space all around it.  You can do the same with greens: mustards, lettuces, spinaches, kales, mizunas are all capable of being sown now outside or in a tray and then transferred outside.  These fast growing, cool weather plants can be feeding you and your family before summer kicks in.  Learn how to do this successfully (and sow a tray of seeds to take home) in our Early Spring Vegetable Gardening class on February 5th or the 25th. 

4.  Keep on top of winter weeds.  Don't let them take over your garden.  They steal nutrients, light and air away from your other plants.  And particularly don't let them go to seed and become an even bigger problem.  We've got a blog post about winter weed control, so check it out if you need some help in that department.

5.  Don't let your garden dry out too much in this weird winter we're having.  The California Bay Area had no precipitation in the month of December, and watering their garden or landscape plantings wasn't on many people's radar.  But a dehydrated plant is more more frost sensitive than their well-watered brethren.  It sounds counter-intuitive, but a plant that has water in it is more insulated from the cold, and can ward off frost damage more efficiently.  So if we go too long without another episode of rain, check your plants for watering.

6.  Start a compost pile.  If this is your garden down-time of year, and you don't have a compost pile yet, consider putting something up that is quick, easy, and inexpensive.  We use free wooden pallets to make our piles.  We just twine four pallets together, place some twigs and branches in the bottom for additional airflow, and start adding layers of green (nitrogen based) plant trimmings and kitchen waste with brown layers (dried leaves, straw, newspaper, torn cardboard).  You'll have some good looking compost come summer time.  If you'd like to sharpen your compost-making skills (and learn about keeping worms as well), our first Compost & Vermiculture class is on April 7.  Come play in the dirt with us out at the farm and see how we build a compost pile from scratch. 

7.  Plant a bare root fruit tree or two.  This is the time of year to get a fruit tree in the ground.  Although they look spindly at the nursery, trees such as cherry, apple, apricot, peach, pear and plum love to be planted now.  Just be mindful of how big they will get and where they will cast their shade, as you don't want to end up with a too-shady garden spot for your vegetable plantings.  We can teach you all about fruit trees in our February 19 class.

Double Digging: For a Great Workout and a New Garden Bed

If your new years resolution is to shed some pounds, then gardening is for you!  It's a double whammy, providing you physical exercise and healthy food!  "Double digging" is a method of creating a raised garden bed used in biodynamic farming.  An alternative to rototillers and tractors, this technique breaks up the ground deeply and thoroughly while preserving the microbiology in the soil, and improving the tilth (or texture) of the soil.

"Dig" is not only a verb, but also a noun meaning the length of a spade fork's or shovel's head.  Double digging means that the garden bed installed will have soil broken up two "digs" below soil level.  Loosening the soil deeply will provide better water drainage and aeration, and plants will have more root space.

To start, mark out a garden bed with a wooden frame or with stakes and twine. Remove any grass or weeds from the marked out area.If using a wood-framed bed on an uneven surface, level it first. 

4 foot wide beds are great because they maximize space and you can still reach into the middle of the beds without struggling.  We usually install 10 or 12 foot long beds, but any length is fine.

Shovel out a trench at one end of the bed that is the width of the bed, 12 inches long, and 1 "dig" deep.  Put all the soil from this trench into a wheelbarrow and move it to just outside the bed on the opposite end.

Loosen up the soil at the bottom of that first trench with a spade fork 1 "dig" deep and add 1 wheelbarrow of compost.  Break up big clods of soil and remove any rocks or roots.  If you don't have your own compost, we suggest using 1 bag of Gardner & Bloome Farmyard Blend compost and 1 bag of Gardner & Bloome Harvest Supreme compost.  Mix in the compost with the lower "dig" of soil.  Once you have begun breaking up the soil in the trench, never walk on that area of the bed again.

Then dig another trench next to the first trench 12 inches long and the width of the bed.  The soil from this trench should be shoveled onto the first trench and broken up and mixed in with the lower "dig" of the first trench.  Then in the bottom of the second trench, break up the soil 1 "dig" deep and add a wheelbarrow (or bags) of compost.

Continue these steps until you get to the end of the bed.  The soil from the first trench that you removed should be added to the top of the last trench in the bed.  Once the bed is double dug, you never ever let anyone step in the bed!

Want to learn more about preparing beds and what you can plant in them now?  Attend our Early Spring Vegetable Gardening Class.